A
trip several miles upcountry to Amphissa, mountainous administrative centre of the
low-tourist patch of Greece where I am hiding, allowed me to visit at last the scene of an unusual ancient narrative.
In
the fourth century BCE, tyrants had taken over Amphissa and installed an
army. A band of Thyiads (a special group of Bacchanalian women from Athens and Delphi) had
been worshipping Dionysus on the nearby summits. But they got lost (they did this a lot; on another occasion they were snowed in and had to be rescued by mountain rangers). This time they passed
out in Amphissa’s marketplace.
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Square of Amphissa, Sleepy Town in Phokis, today |
The
more sedate local wives were concerned that the occupying soldiers would 'take
advantage' of their insensible visitors. The women of Amphissa bravely stood all night encircling
the Thyiads to guard their sleep. In the morning they fed them and (after demurely securing permission from their husbands) escorted them in safety to the borders.
|
Lawrence Alma Tadema, 'Women of Amphissa', Clark Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts |
George
Eliot brought this story into popular circulation. The hero of her Daniel Deronda (1876) is reminded of the
version in Plutarch’s On
the Virtues of Women when he rescues the vulnerable foreigner Mirah
Lapidoth. An updated maenad (professional opera singer), she had been threatened with prostitution by the men who should have
protected her. Daniel takes her to stay with respectable female friends in
Chelsea, the less than obvious Victorian equivalent of Amphissa.
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Black-Figure Bacchant on Plate in Amphissa Museum |
And
it was Eliot’s novel which in turn inspired Alma Tadema’s portentous 1887 painting
of the same episode. I like his sleepy Thyiads, but am relieved to be able to report that the native matrons of
Amphissa look a good deal more cheerful these days as well as remaining (although
I didn’t test it) stalwart in the defence of female honour. I know this because I spent the morning in Amphissa police station (my kind hostess needed to renew her Greek passport to secure her own safe conduct over borders) being impressed by the easy professionalism of a female officer, a modern Woman of Amphissa.
|
Ladies of Amphissa Looking Very Serious Indeed |
Very engaging and informative post Edith (was looking at an image of the painting by L.A.Tadema, then clicked your link). Cheers!
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